Society of Dyers and Colourists

SDC International Design Competition

Following three wins in a row, we spoke to Gina Esterhuizen, Principal Lecturer, Department of Applied Design at Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University about NMMU’s success in SDC’s International Design Competition.

Can you give me a little more information about your department and the course(s) you teach?

Our fashion and textile department is one of the oldest design departments in the country, founded in 1881 but the textile and fashion courses have evolved very much since then. Initially the textile course focused purely on design. Over the years with changing local textile employment conditions as a result of a struggling textile industry, the decision came to link some of the fashion and textile diploma content. In this manner a student who enrolls for the textile course now also gain skills and knowledge on the assembly of a product – and vice versa the fashion students gain knowledge and skills in surface design techniques. This resulted in a more rounded student who could become an entrepreneur; which has become a strong emphasis in our course.

A new teaching and learning method has also been introduced over the last few years, we call it ‘process driven’. This basically encompasses seven design stages that the student has to consider for each project. The student demonstrates his/her understanding and resultant individual idea of the project in a journal that contains the concept through to the final refinement of the product they wish to create. The development consists of questions that they need to ask themselves, enhancing their creative thinking process.

On a personal level, I teach 20^th century history for second year fashion and textile students. We deal with 20^th century fashion and textiles structured within a socio cultural setting. I am also responsible for placing textile students in industry for a few weeks. However, most of my teaching time is spent with BTech students, they are students who have performed academically well in their third year and are invited to study BTech. It is a privilege to work with these motivated students. As part of the course, these students do design and they are guided into academic writing practices which are achieved through essays they hand in during the year.

The BTech theory syllabus briefly consists of a prescribed essay, book reviews and a specialist essay based on their individual specialist interest area. For the first design component of the course, the students enroll for a competition which could be a local or international competition, here they learn how to thoroughly research a brief and how to respond creatively and uniquely to criteria set by the competition. My awareness of the SDC competition came three years ago from the Melliand International publication, that was when we first entered students.

For their final specialist essay, the design aspect consists of artifacts that are made up according to the research findings. The specialist essay and design could in fact be part of their SDC competition entry, for example Laduma did specialist research on his MaXhosa jerseys and produced them for his design portfolio. Moipone and Shannon chose different themes for their final essay and portolio. Moipone wove wall paper designs for her final portfolio and Shannon researched textiles for ‘anti-fashion’ and ‘wearable art’ and analysed their different meanings.

What is the importance of the design competition to you and the students?

I think the most important aspect of the competition is the exposure of the student to new surroundings and experiences. Most of our students are from the greater Port Elizabeth area and have never been outside the borders of the province, let alone to an overseas country. The SDC competition is very professional and well run and students can compare their abilities to students from other countries, a type of platform where they can view and form new ideas, a very inspirational space. Through this competition the student becomes aware of how colour can impact and make a difference in design and that colour is a universal language, even though it may have different meanings in different parts of the world.

The students further find themselves in an international arena, where they meet students from across the globe. Each of these students brings with him or her different background, life experiences, life skills, attitudes, all in all a real melting pot of experiences which they can share and where they can form lasting friendships.

We are extremely happy for the opportunities that this competition has brought to the student winners. They are immediately accepted on an international level which opens doors for future careers. For us at the NMMU the competition has also opened doors to international recognition. We are very proud of our university – and this competition has given us international standing, we cannot ask for more. We are also truly fortunate that very positive media feedback for the past three years has placed NMMU firmly on the academic map.

Why do you think NMMU has been so successful in the competition?

This is difficult to find any one accurate answer, but maybe the following reasons could be considered: students are encouraged to think laterally so as to find uniquely creative ideas; thoroughness in student research and execution; meaningful critique sessions where staff evaluate the design work that the students produce; and also importantly, good communication skills. The students are used to presentations where they need to explain their concepts; they often prepare PowerPoint presentations that are delivered to their peers and lecturers.

What impact do you think the competition has had on the students?

Moipone states that the competition energised her and gave her confidence. She realised that the prize was a starting point and that if she is recognised internationally she has something to contribute to job creation. Going to colourful India was for her an eye opener, meeting other students who were like minded, learning about their cultures and also attending the textile workshops stand out in her memory. She also decided to use her prize money to start her own company.

Laduma stated that the whole competition was a wonderful experience; his win opened many doors as one thing led to another. The competition literally kick started his design career. The competition made him realise that his designs had great potential and the international recognition gave him all the confidence to pursue his ideas and his dream of working with colour and to promote indigenous South African fibre and design. The competition for him had many firsts, the first time on a flight; the first time traveling outside the country, the first time in London, the list goes on. He is very indebted to the win and what it made possible for him as a designer. He also used the prize money to start his own company.

Shannon was totally overwhelmed at the win and with hindsight reckoned that her hard work paid off. There was also the realisation that one could help others through design. The win for her has also been a confidence boost. The win has motivated her to work even harder and has made her aware that everything is possible. She finds it very inspiring to work with colour and has decided that this is what she would like to do one day, to work with textiles and with colour.

What are Shannon, Laduma and Moipone up to now?

Initially Moipone wanted to use her weaving knowledge to set up a weaving centre but found that too challenging with ownership of looms and labour issues amongst others. She has since registered her own company called BUKA designs, using the prize money from the SDC competition. Since last year she designs and outsources embroidery and printing for companies including promotional items such as T-shirts, golf caps, golf shirts etc. She also designs wedding invitations which is doing so well that she hopes to expand into the design of greeting of cards as well in the near future. She is busy with a business plan to secure funding in order to buy her own embroidery machines; if she is successful she could then create more jobs by training others to use these machines.

Laduma’s media exposure when he came back to South Africa after he won the SDC competition was phenomenal, perhaps as his design story was quite unique and touched cultural timbre. One thing led to another, the Design Indaba organisers invited him to present his designs at a Pecha Kucha presentation at the 2011 International Design Indaba in Cape Town. He was the only South African student chosen. Here more splendid media coverage followed and Lee Edelkoort and other important international persons became interested in his designs. After he registered his Maxhosa company he was also invited and showcased his jerseys at the November London Fashion Week. The NMMU set up an Innovation Centre for him at our textile department where he as well as other potential knitters received further training. He has also been on a social circuit, with invitations to judge at competitions in Cape Town and locally. After a year of finding his feet and considering various job offers, there is a strong possibility that he will soon move to Cape Town to work with the Cape Town Fashion Council to develop and market his jerseys. He already has very strong business contacts to market his jersey designs. He has internationally been recognised in The Wallpaper magazine as one of 20 persons, events or companies that make South Africans proud.

Shannon as the latest recipient is still busy planning her future. She is looking into building up funds to assist aids orphans, for example an event like a charity golf day. This could then assist the orphans in the meantime before the poncho project is properly finalised between all the role players. The NMMU will see how they can become involved in setting up this project as it would need proper co-ordination. She is certain of one thing though, and that is that she would like to continue working with colour and with textiles.

January 2012